Joe Vargetto’s Siciliano: it’s a breath of fresh sea air

Big, cloudless skies. Seltz limone e sale at seaside kiosks. Amazing pistachio gelato. Hilltop villages, all but deserted at midday. Spaghetti with sea urchin. The joylessness of Catania except for its open-air food market, a thrill. And cheese. Lots and lots of cheese, from ricotta of course to caciocavallo and many variations on the output of lactating cows and sheep in between. I can definitely see another visit to Sicily in my future.
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